PORT DOUGLAS- - Today is my last full day in Port Douglas and it's hard to push aside the feelings of melancholy. I don't want to leave.
It's not just the weather, which is perfect for me: mid to upper 80s F with bright blue sunny skies and a light ocean breeze.
It's not just the atmosphere: relaxed and friendly; five minutes' conversation at a craft fare turns easily into exchanged emails and recipes from moms.
It's not just my hosts: Christel and Wolfgang have included me in their circle of friends, sharing birthday champagne and balloons plus dinner with a small, but fun group of Germans and Aussies.
I'm not sure what it is, but I'll miss it.
Saturday, November 12, 2005
Friday, November 11, 2005
Birthday day
For those romantics out there that are wondering about Leg Shaver Guy, he was one of the first messages I received on my birthday. (Okay, my sister-in-law's cell phone call at 2:20 AM was technically the first!)
Normally, I would grant myself the luxury of sleep on my b-day, but on that day, I had a date with tropical fish and gorgeous ocean water. I was going to the Great Barrier Reef!
Quicksilver is a company that's been offering trips to the Low Isles for 18 years and it's my third time with them. We took off on a boat called Wavedancer. Okay, "boat" isn't the proper word. How about this: a huge blindingly white catamaran with a gigantic blue sail and room for about 150 people (we only had about 80).
Halfway to the Low Isles (inner reef), my cell phone rang! It was my mom, wishing me "happy birthday," so that was nice.
The difference in this Wavedancer snorkeling trip from past years was this year, we were strongly encouraged to wear "stinger suits" aka blue lycra bodysuits. The suit would keep us safe from "stingers," commonly known in the US as Portugese manowar or jellyfish. It also protects against sunburn. Honestly, the outfit included a hood and mitten-type things, so I was pretty much blue top to bottom.
Think Blue Man Group goes swimming!
I didn't care if they put me in armor, I was going out to visit the fishies! And, boy did I see a TON! of them including a sea turtle that swam right up to me! When I came across about a dozen medium-sized (half meter?) fish all chomping down on coral in the same spot like an aquatic McDonalds, I decided it was time for lunch.
The buffet on the Wavedancer was pretty cool with prawns, chicken, three kinds of salads plus a mango-orange drink to wash it all down. Of course, after finishing the full day of snorkeling, I switched to rum and coke (more on that later).
The second round of snorkeling didn't come as easily to me and I kept getting water in my mask. Finally, I got somewhat comfy. Keep in mind that all but approximately two inches of my entire body is encased in blue spandex.
I felt a tiny pinch on the right side of my upper lip, but I didn't see the offending fish (or coral or whatever), but decided the prudent thing would be to call it a day and find out if I was going to die or not (just kidding).
The divemaster told me that I probably got stung by sea lice. How glamorous is that?? A bit of ice on the spot and I should be fine. I decided that a bit of rum and coke would be much better. (The bartender - -a woman- - bought me my first rum and coke for a bday gift.)
Back on the boat, the Wavedancer crew had set up shop with various photos of each of us taken at the Low Isles. Yes, I'm a sucker, so I bought one of me in my famous blue bodysuit. If you bought two photos, you got a CD with fish and other scenes from the reef and our boat. I only wanted one photo, so no go. (But the photographer and I talked for a bit and he found out it was my birthday, so after I paid for my photo, I found he also included the CD as a gift! How cool is that?!)
Back to my apartment/hotel, I was all set to have champagne with Christel and Wolfgang, the German couple who own the complex. When I checked in earlier this week, Christel mentioned that she bought some champagne for my birthday. Is she great or what??
Several toasts later, the five of us (another German couple joined us) had killed only two bottles of bubbly, but it was time for me to go to dinner.
Another wonderful evening in Port Douglas included kangaroo loin in some fabulous au jus plus a passionfruit custard, mango and strawberry dessert. Watergate (the restaurant) is tucked in off the main street with huge palm trees and ferns shrouding it from the noise of the road. The staff was great, even showing me their resident green tree frog. They said I could name it, so I suggested "Cubby." We'll see if that sticks.
On the return trip from the Low Isles, the gang on the Wavedancer had been treated to a solo guitar player and singer. It was magical and I wasn't keen on this evening ending yet, so I found out that the singer was performing a few blocks from Watergate.
I caught the last set and the singer waved to me from behind the mic and said "Happy Birthday MJ!"
Up at 7 am and in bed soon after midnight, a bit more tanned and a tiny bit buzzed. All in all, a pretty fabulous 40th!
Normally, I would grant myself the luxury of sleep on my b-day, but on that day, I had a date with tropical fish and gorgeous ocean water. I was going to the Great Barrier Reef!
Quicksilver is a company that's been offering trips to the Low Isles for 18 years and it's my third time with them. We took off on a boat called Wavedancer. Okay, "boat" isn't the proper word. How about this: a huge blindingly white catamaran with a gigantic blue sail and room for about 150 people (we only had about 80).
Halfway to the Low Isles (inner reef), my cell phone rang! It was my mom, wishing me "happy birthday," so that was nice.
The difference in this Wavedancer snorkeling trip from past years was this year, we were strongly encouraged to wear "stinger suits" aka blue lycra bodysuits. The suit would keep us safe from "stingers," commonly known in the US as Portugese manowar or jellyfish. It also protects against sunburn. Honestly, the outfit included a hood and mitten-type things, so I was pretty much blue top to bottom.
Think Blue Man Group goes swimming!
I didn't care if they put me in armor, I was going out to visit the fishies! And, boy did I see a TON! of them including a sea turtle that swam right up to me! When I came across about a dozen medium-sized (half meter?) fish all chomping down on coral in the same spot like an aquatic McDonalds, I decided it was time for lunch.
The buffet on the Wavedancer was pretty cool with prawns, chicken, three kinds of salads plus a mango-orange drink to wash it all down. Of course, after finishing the full day of snorkeling, I switched to rum and coke (more on that later).
The second round of snorkeling didn't come as easily to me and I kept getting water in my mask. Finally, I got somewhat comfy. Keep in mind that all but approximately two inches of my entire body is encased in blue spandex.
I felt a tiny pinch on the right side of my upper lip, but I didn't see the offending fish (or coral or whatever), but decided the prudent thing would be to call it a day and find out if I was going to die or not (just kidding).
The divemaster told me that I probably got stung by sea lice. How glamorous is that?? A bit of ice on the spot and I should be fine. I decided that a bit of rum and coke would be much better. (The bartender - -a woman- - bought me my first rum and coke for a bday gift.)
Back on the boat, the Wavedancer crew had set up shop with various photos of each of us taken at the Low Isles. Yes, I'm a sucker, so I bought one of me in my famous blue bodysuit. If you bought two photos, you got a CD with fish and other scenes from the reef and our boat. I only wanted one photo, so no go. (But the photographer and I talked for a bit and he found out it was my birthday, so after I paid for my photo, I found he also included the CD as a gift! How cool is that?!)
Back to my apartment/hotel, I was all set to have champagne with Christel and Wolfgang, the German couple who own the complex. When I checked in earlier this week, Christel mentioned that she bought some champagne for my birthday. Is she great or what??
Several toasts later, the five of us (another German couple joined us) had killed only two bottles of bubbly, but it was time for me to go to dinner.
Another wonderful evening in Port Douglas included kangaroo loin in some fabulous au jus plus a passionfruit custard, mango and strawberry dessert. Watergate (the restaurant) is tucked in off the main street with huge palm trees and ferns shrouding it from the noise of the road. The staff was great, even showing me their resident green tree frog. They said I could name it, so I suggested "Cubby." We'll see if that sticks.
On the return trip from the Low Isles, the gang on the Wavedancer had been treated to a solo guitar player and singer. It was magical and I wasn't keen on this evening ending yet, so I found out that the singer was performing a few blocks from Watergate.
I caught the last set and the singer waved to me from behind the mic and said "Happy Birthday MJ!"
Up at 7 am and in bed soon after midnight, a bit more tanned and a tiny bit buzzed. All in all, a pretty fabulous 40th!
Haven't emigrated...yet
PORT DOUGLAS- - Okay, I've been pretty slack on my posting the last fews days, but if you had a choice between floating in impossibly blue ocean waves with bright sunlight on your face or sitting at a computer, which would you choose?
Okay, the past few days have been fabulously busy..no, that's not the right word. Occupied? (no, that sounds like WW II France). Exciting and fun, would be more like it.
A few days ago, I joined a group touring the Daintree Rainforest and Cape Tribulation (where Captain Cook crashed one of his ships "the place where my troubles began," he said, hence the name). While in the rainforest, we barbequed lunch at a privately owned spot in the middle of HUGE ferns and even bigger palm trees. After lunch, we swam in what can only be described as an idyllic freshwater pond. Think "Blue Lagoon" except with (some) clothes on.
I have some photos (that you'll, unfortunately, have to wait to see), but it was unlike anything I've ever done. I was splashing around in cool, clear water, surrounded by historic King ferns (pre-date dinosaurs!!!), Alexander palms, Madagascar palms, silky oaks, bismarkia palms, tree ferns, plus some very curious and friendly fish and a few tortoises. The slivers of sunlight broke through the rainforest canopy just enough to keep things from getting chilly.
Think "Beverly Hillbillies" and their "cement pond", but in reverse!
If you ever get up this way, the swimming hole was called Cassowary Creek.
Okay, the past few days have been fabulously busy..no, that's not the right word. Occupied? (no, that sounds like WW II France). Exciting and fun, would be more like it.
A few days ago, I joined a group touring the Daintree Rainforest and Cape Tribulation (where Captain Cook crashed one of his ships "the place where my troubles began," he said, hence the name). While in the rainforest, we barbequed lunch at a privately owned spot in the middle of HUGE ferns and even bigger palm trees. After lunch, we swam in what can only be described as an idyllic freshwater pond. Think "Blue Lagoon" except with (some) clothes on.
I have some photos (that you'll, unfortunately, have to wait to see), but it was unlike anything I've ever done. I was splashing around in cool, clear water, surrounded by historic King ferns (pre-date dinosaurs!!!), Alexander palms, Madagascar palms, silky oaks, bismarkia palms, tree ferns, plus some very curious and friendly fish and a few tortoises. The slivers of sunlight broke through the rainforest canopy just enough to keep things from getting chilly.
Think "Beverly Hillbillies" and their "cement pond", but in reverse!
If you ever get up this way, the swimming hole was called Cassowary Creek.
Tuesday, November 08, 2005
Sun-induced amnesia
PORT DOUGLAS - -Well, I've done it. I've lost track of what day it is. That always happens to me when I'm in Australia. Not sure why. Could be because IT.JUST.DOESN'T.MATTER!!!
Okay, I guess it matters a little when I've booked a tour like tomorrow (Cape Tribulation...look it up!) and the Great Barrier Reef on Thursday for my birthday trip.
I've been in Port Douglas for two days now and it already feels like home. The heat and humidity is just what my psyche needed. Christel (the manager/owner of the apartments where I'm staying) bought me a bottle of "bubbly" for my birthday. Isn't that fabulous!!
I spent the better part of my first afternoon here just sitting on a promontory under some palm trees, watching the ocean (or to be more exact, the Coral Sea). It's amazing how hypnotic the incoming tide can be. With each wave, I could feel my shoulders relax and my mind open up to the sights and sounds of nature. It was so unbelievably beautiful and calming.
Sorry I don't have photos yet, but maybe some imagery will do.
A huge flock of parrots exploded from a nearby palm tree and as the cloud of green feathers turned en masse toward its destination, amid cries and squawks, the afternoon sun ignited their bright red breasts.
Geez, I could really get used to this.
Oh, before I forget. Leg Shaver Guy text messaged me today (yesterday too) and said he tried to send me the photo of him as a girl, but my email wouldn't let it through. Any ideas why?? I suggested he try my other email address, so we'll see.
Okay, I guess it matters a little when I've booked a tour like tomorrow (Cape Tribulation...look it up!) and the Great Barrier Reef on Thursday for my birthday trip.
I've been in Port Douglas for two days now and it already feels like home. The heat and humidity is just what my psyche needed. Christel (the manager/owner of the apartments where I'm staying) bought me a bottle of "bubbly" for my birthday. Isn't that fabulous!!
I spent the better part of my first afternoon here just sitting on a promontory under some palm trees, watching the ocean (or to be more exact, the Coral Sea). It's amazing how hypnotic the incoming tide can be. With each wave, I could feel my shoulders relax and my mind open up to the sights and sounds of nature. It was so unbelievably beautiful and calming.
Sorry I don't have photos yet, but maybe some imagery will do.
A huge flock of parrots exploded from a nearby palm tree and as the cloud of green feathers turned en masse toward its destination, amid cries and squawks, the afternoon sun ignited their bright red breasts.
Geez, I could really get used to this.
Oh, before I forget. Leg Shaver Guy text messaged me today (yesterday too) and said he tried to send me the photo of him as a girl, but my email wouldn't let it through. Any ideas why?? I suggested he try my other email address, so we'll see.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)